Crunchy, meaty, and satisfying, this wiener schnitzel is worth the trip to Scharf’s.

One of the last bastions of Buffalo’s once-thriving German community is a restaurant called Scharf’s Schiller Park, named for its proximity to the park, near the border of Buffalo and Cheektowaga. (34 S. Crossman St., Buffalo; 716-895-7249)

Many of the houses on surrounding blocks have seen better days, and the park not the shady glade it once was. But inside the walls of Scharf’s, it seems little has changed.

There’s Spaten and other German beers on tap in the barroom, inside the front door. The dining room might as well have been set in amber, with hand-lettered signs and each table bedecked with a display of tired plastic flowers.

But the food was pleasantly real. The braised red cabbage and sauerkraut were tender and tangy. The German potato salad was the only real disappointment, with a texture resembling lumpy mashed potatoes.

Liver dumpling soup (at right) was satisfying, with a faintly livery but relatively light dumpling in broth. I’ll take those dumplings over any matzoh balls I’ve encountered.
That’s real meat inside Scharf’s schnitzel crust, ja?

My wiener schnitzel was a fine specimen, the coating noticeably crunchy, and the interior quite plainly meat, moist and tender.

Scharf’s roast duck was a welcome lunch companion.

I traded Mark some for a pass at his roast duck, which was also flavorful and admirably tender. The stuffing and gravy didn’t hurt. I’d forgotten how much I like spatzle, the extruded dumpling that’s usually browned in a pan with some butter. These dumplings were a homey, welcome accompaniment to the meat dishes, in contrast to the vinegary cabbage.

Spaetzle like Scharfs’ beats mashed potatoes every time.

After eating at Ulrich’s, I was unimpressed by its Germanness, though I will put its beer array and fish fry up against anyone’s. If you seek German fare, though, check out Scharf’s Schiller Park. While you still can.

Filed under: Buffalo, Restaurants