• News bites

    • 11.17.08

      The best of the second-best bacon

      The San Francisco Chronicle tasks its Taster’s Choice panel with ranking the turkey bacon brands. Short version? If your fork can’t touch pork, Oscar Meyer’s Louis Rich brand wins by, like, a lot. And if you shop at Kroger, definitely skip the house label. (via) (photo)


    • 11.10.08

      Carol Cooks Keller

      “It takes a special kind of nutjob to attempt every recipe in The French Laundry Cookbook,” Carol Blymire writes on French Laundry at Home, where she did exactly that. Start with her recap and retrospective, then work your way back through all the brilliant success and maddening kitchen sadism. (via) (pic)


    • 11.07.08

      Cakes we can believe in

      Zilly Rosen, a cake artist from OBK’s home base of Buffalo, NY, leaves us nearly without words with her 1,250-cupcake Obama portrait. Read how she did it at Cupcakes Take the Cake.


Recipe: Caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate by Pierre Herme

Caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate by Pierre Herme
You know what makes a great stirrer? Cinnamon sticks, of course.

After they’ve been out in the cold, scaring the cat, putting snow in each others’ hats and torturing each other in the teeth-grindingly annoying way that only siblings can, my children enjoy a sweet cup of hot chocolate.

Or, when it’s not so cold and they haven’t even looked outside. Either way.

So far, all the hot chocolate the little dears have tasted would be more accurately described as “hot chocolate type flavored powder” dissolved in warm milk. Or maybe, if they were lucky, chocolate syrup in milk.

One day, if they have not been swept into the welcoming arms of the child protection system, I will try to make them a pot of the caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate that dear Luci made for us to crown the Mexican fiesta. It’s a Pierre Herme recipe that’s absolutely worth the effort for special occasions. Like, when it snows in Buffalo.

Or perhaps I shouldn’t make it for the urchins. After one mouthful they might be prompted to call the authorities themselves, to turn their parents in for foisting that gray powder off on them all these years, mini-marshmallows or no.

Caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate by Pierre Herme 2
Even caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate could use a dose of whipped cream and fresh ground cinnamon.

The caramelized sugar provides a deep, mellow foundation of flavor for the fine chocolate to really sing. A dusting of fresh ground cinnamon, and it’s like doing snow-angels in a newly-falled drift of deliciousness.

A note about chocolate: The book, “Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme,” written by Dorie Greenspan, calls for Valrhona Noir Gastronomie, if possible. Luci used Ghiradelli Bittersweet 60 percent, and it was still swoonworthy.

Monsieur Herme, whose grip on all things chocolate can best be described as Wonkaesque, describes this recipe as providing two servings. That may be so, but I will also report that Luci provided satiating doses to 18 people with a triple batch.

Caramelized Cinnamon Hot Chocolate

2 1/4 cups whole milk
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate

Bring milk and water to boil in a saucepan. Turn off heat.

In another saucepan, heat sugar and cinnamon stick over medium heat. The sugar will start to melt after several minutes. After it starts to melt and turn amber, stir with a wooden spoon. Make sure the cinnamon is cooking along with the sugar.

When the sugar reaches deep amber, still stirring, pour in the milk and water mixture. It may clump, but keep stirring, and it will dissolve again.

When the mixture is smooth, whisk in the chocolate. Continue to whisk on the heat until the first bubble pops. Remove pan from heat and take out cinnamon stick. Whip with an immersion blender for 1 minute.

Serve with dollops of fresh whipped cream and cinnamon, or pour into a container. Can be made up to two days ahead and stored in the fridge in a well sealed container. If made ahead, whip again after reheating.

Caramelized cinnamon hot chocolate by Pierre Herme 3

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