• News bites

    • 11.17.08

      The best of the second-best bacon

      The San Francisco Chronicle tasks its Taster’s Choice panel with ranking the turkey bacon brands. Short version? If your fork can’t touch pork, Oscar Meyer’s Louis Rich brand wins by, like, a lot. And if you shop at Kroger, definitely skip the house label. (via) (photo)


    • 11.10.08

      Carol Cooks Keller

      “It takes a special kind of nutjob to attempt every recipe in The French Laundry Cookbook,” Carol Blymire writes on French Laundry at Home, where she did exactly that. Start with her recap and retrospective, then work your way back through all the brilliant success and maddening kitchen sadism. (via) (pic)


    • 11.07.08

      Cakes we can believe in

      Zilly Rosen, a cake artist from OBK’s home base of Buffalo, NY, leaves us nearly without words with her 1,250-cupcake Obama portrait. Read how she did it at Cupcakes Take the Cake.


Red delicious

You can’t, ahem, beet the flavor
Beets are one of those vegetables that Kathy never liked. I was frankly not crazy about them either - usually they arrived on my plate as a sweet pickle, boiled in vinegar and sugar, maybe a few onions and cloves thrown in.
Then, at a restaurant whose name escapes me for [...]

Good Things: Natural meats and poultry

Here’s the list I compiled of local sources for naturally-raised meat. Natural, as in no fed hormones or antibiotics. There may be more, but these are the ones I know about.
Hanova Hills Farms, Forestville: Natural beef. Order packages, quarters or halves from the farm (965-2249). Also sells at Lexington Co-op and Bidwell Farmer’s Market. Will [...]

Restaurants: Gin Gin, ribs to spare

The cook would hack up some pork ribs with a big cleaver, and roll them in some sort of coating. Then he would deep-fry them. Then he would simmer the crunchy nuggets in a sweet wine sauce loaded with a fistful of chopped garlic.

Recipes: Mexican queso dip, guilty pleasures

Not some authentic blend of Mexican cheeses made on a tiny farm in Guadalajara where the farmer knows all of his goats by name and sings them to sleep with mariachi lullabies every night. Or even salsa made from heirloom tomatoes.

Odds and Ends: One step forward

That’s odd. I should be thrilled the team has won one of the four series it would need for the National Hockey League championship that would mean so much to this city. The Sabres probably will play the New York Rangers in the second round, and should be able to beat that team too.

Restaurants: Koreana, Korean food, stick to the ribs

It’s at a little place on Niagara Falls Boulevard just north of Sheridan Drive (1010 Niagara Falls Blvd., 836-5858). Called Koreana, it dishes up homestyle Korean to college students and families, mostly, many with links to the nearby University at Buffalo.

Recipes: Roasted root vegetables, oven lovin’

Turn the potatoes evey 10 minutes or so, as they lose water and start to get sticky. After 20 minutes, add the carrots. After 30 minutes, the sweet potatoes. Don’t crowd the pan, and keep everything to one layer. Browning will only occur when vegetable touches metal.

Restaurants: Shanghai, Chinese tasty tofu

It’s called “General Tso’s tofu,” a takeoff on the American chinese favorite of battered chicken in spicy sweet sauce. At Shanghai, 21 Main St., Tonawanda (694-1818), they give soft tofu the General Tso treatment. It’s a worthy addition to our search for decent Chinese dishes in Western New York.

Grilling: Lamb and Goat

The hardest part was leaving room for the rest of the amazingness. You know what? Goat has gotten a bad rap. I liked it even better than the lamb. Of course, I might be biased, because I ate it in the best possible context: A cold beer in one hand, picking my selected shreds off the beast as it continued to slowly rotate over the coals.

Recipes: Chinese Roast Pork Belly, poor man’s foie gras

However complicated you want to get on the rest of the plate, this roast Chinese pork belly really couldn’t be simpler. Rub pork belly with salt and five-spice powder, let dry out for two hours, roast. I let the time sneak up on me the last time I made it, and I hit it with a hairdryer for 15 minutes instead. It was a crackling good time.